Cooking Off The Cuff
With Farm-To-Table Ingredients
There’s nothing better than browsing the stands of local farmers markets on a spring day, fueling spontaneous culinary creations with peak-of-the-season produce. For chefs and home cooks alike, this is a dream, a true “kid in a candy store” moment.
My first taste of real farm-to-table cooking was in Birmingham, Alabama, where I had the good fortune of landing the chef position at the top restaurants that were working with farmers who grew produce just for the local upscale restaurants. When the trucks arrived daily at our back doors, there was a rush of excitement to see what the farmers chose for us to kick start the inspiration for our daily menu. Ingredients like arugula, so crisp that it snapped in half when you broke it, and its intoxicating vapors that cleared your sinuses immediately. And asparagus, so fresh and perfect that it needed nothing more than a 20-second blanch in salt water to bring out its sweetness and bright green color. The herbs, fennel, multitudes of heirloom eggplants, countless varieties of freshly shucked field peas, and okra – each bursting with flavor and potential. And let’s not forget the tomatoes … oh the tomatoes! Mama Mia, the mix of perfect and imperfect tomatoes in all shapes, sizes, and colors was staggering.
It’s hard to mess up cooking when you’re working with great ingredients. As a chef, I know that great ingredients equals a great finished dish. This is the mindset of many European cultures, particularly the French and Italians, who understand the importance of starting with the best ingredients possible. This philosophy is also what prompted the farm-to-table movement in America, beginning in San Francisco in the 1970s with a little restaurant (and still my favorite), Chez Panisse. The core principle was simple – grow amazing heirloom fruits and vegetables, pick them at the moment of their peak ripeness, and treat them simply. For many of us, this is the way – the only way. Hence, the movement was born.
The spontaneity of cooking with the ever-changing availability of produce and forming the bond with the farmers is a unique and equitable connection. We get to learn and understand where and how our food is grown and the growers get to educate and support their customers with information and superior nutrition while making a living. The freedom to meander through the farmers market stalls sparks impromptu decisions in the kitchen. I would argue that spontaneous cooking is the best cooking.
So, what to do with this bounty of goodness available to us? Well, it’s all about keeping an open mind. Grab a few peppers, okra, eggplants, some different varieties of tomatoes, a few fresh herbs, take them home, and start roasting, slicing, stewing, spicing, and pickling. Let the okra become friends with the tomatoes and some of your favorite Indian spices. Make a delicious, out-of-the-box pesto with herbs that aren’t just basil for your grilled eggplant. Drizzle those perfectly ripe tomatoes with some good olive oil and sprinkle with coarse salt. Buy that artisan sourdough to toast on the grill. Use ripe and overripe fruits and herbs to jazz up your summer cocktails. See how far you can push your boundaries and play with your food. There are no losers, only a delicious learning experience.
Nunzio Scordo
Co-owner of Franko’s Italian Steakhouse and Eli’s Tavern and Smokehouse, in Downtown Franklinton.